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ABS Front Wheel - Removal/Reinstallation
System Category: Chassis
Activity Type: Scheduled Maintenance
FJR Model Year: 2003  2004  2004 ABS  All model years
Date Submitted:Nov, 2003

ABS Front Wheel - Removal/Reinstallation

The large Yamaha FJR1300 Service Manual depicts front wheel removal/reinstallation only for the standard model FJR1300. You have to buy the 2004 FJR1300 Supplemental Manual for information on changes regarding the 2004 FJR1300-ABS model, introduced to North America in the summer of '03.

Most unfortunately, even that Supplemental Manual is misleading!

The 2004 Yamaha FJR1300 Supplemental Manual is approximately 140 pages in length, over half of those pages deal strictly with the ABS system. Page 51 is the first time you see a drawing that depicts removing/reinstalling the front wheel; what is not clearly expressed, however, is that this drawing is for the standard model only, not the ABS wheel!

It is not until page 105 that you first see the correct diagram for the ABS front wheel, which is reproduced below:

Since this is the first time I had the front wheel off, I went ahead and removed the fender as well (though it's not necessary for wheel removal; it just makes things easier to see.) Fender removal is candy, just two 4mm allen head fasteners on each side (fasteners A and B below; 2 per side, total of 4). (NOTE: Normally, you would see the front wheel reflector (item 1 above) in the following photos, but I have removed them from my FJR as a matter of personal preference.)

At this point you can remove the two 12mm caliper bolts (two per caliper), and the hydraulic line clamp fastener (item 'C' below) for both sides of the wheel. (On the LEFT side, you must also remove the ABS sensor bolt, which takes a 5mm allen wrench. Withdraw the sensor element and *CAREFULLY* zip-tie it safely out of the way.

DO NOT allow the sensor element to bang up against nearby steel components!

It is important to remove the 8mm bolt depicted as item 'C'; only then will you have enough slack in the brake line to allow you to work the calipers off of the rotors without scratching up your rims. (Once the calipers are clear of the rotors, you can temporarily re-install brake clamp fastener 'C' to help hold the calipers up out of the way):

Before lifting the front end, loosen the axle pinch bolt (item 5 in above drawing), then use a 19mm allen wrench to loosen and slightly unthread the front axle (item 6 in above drawing), but only enough to loosen the axle. Now that everything's loose, it's time to lift the front end.

There are a number of methods one could use to hold the front end off the ground; I just used my Pit Bull front end stand, which works splendidly as you can see below.

Once the wheel is off the ground, support the tire at the bottom with a piece of wood (or whatever) to take the weight off the axle, and continue to unthread it. Once clear of the threads, the axle slides completely out. You may or may not find that you need to carefully "work out" the collared spacer on the right side (as you sit on the bike; item 9 in above drawing) before the wheel will clear the forks and drop out from them.

Re-installation: Re-installing the front wheel is basically the reverse of the above steps, HOWEVER, it is critical that the sensor ring be correctly oriented and other components properly lubed prior to re-assembly!

Component Lubing:

First, thoroughly clean and lube the axle bolt with a thin layer of your favorite grease (Yamaha recommends a lithium-soap grease; I used the tried-n-true Mobil One Synthetic Grease, which uses a lithium complex for its thickener type).

The other two items that should be lubed prior to assembly (which the manual doesn't mention!) are:
  1. the collared spacer (item 9 above), lightly lubed inside and out
  2. the *inside* of the sensor ring housing, i.e., that "shiny" portion that resides inside the wheel-bearing dust seal.
Both of the above items have rotating seals surrounding them once the wheel is fully assembled, so you want to ensure there is a thin layer of grease on these collars before you re-assemble the wheel.

Sensor Ring Orientation:

The left fork (as you sit on the bike) has a silver "tab" (pointing to by red arrow below) which must reside within the two small black tangs on sensor ring housing (one of these black "tangs" is point to by yellow arrow). ENSURE that you have this orientation correct before sliding the axle through the wheel!
Finally, ensure you torqued all fastener hardware (item#'s shown in above diagram) to the correct specification as depicted in the table below. Before you begin, take a moment to pause, and reflect upon the importance of the very names of the bolts we're talkin' about here: Caliper bolts. Axle pinch bolt. ABS Sensor bolt. etc., etc...  it goes without saying: this is serious business. You don't want to dick this up... properly torque these bolts to factory specifications:

Diagram Item# (or description)   Quantity  Proper Name Torque (lb-lbs) Tool Needed
#61Front Axle bolt52 ft-lbs19mm hex, torque wrench
Bolts near reflectors (#1)4Caliper bolts29 ft-lbs12mm socket, torque wrench
Bolts above calipers (#3)2Brake clamp bolts5.1 ft-lbs8mm socket, torque wrench
Bolt near item (#4)1ABS Sensor bolt22 ft-lbs5mm hex, torque wrench
#51Axle pinch bolt17 ft-lbs6mm hex, torque wrench

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