Home          Bike Specs          Maintenance          Farkles          Search          Links     

Lubing the Driving, Driven and Driveshaft Splines!
System Category: Chassis
Activity Type: Scheduled Maintenance
FJR Model Year: 2003  2004  2004 ABS  All model years
Date Submitted:January, 2004
FJR Spline Lubrication:

It's hard to believe Yamaha has left out the importance of lubing the drive splines with EVERY tire change! Failure to do this religiously can result in eventual drive-spline failure.... probably when you are on a 2 week tour, in the middle of nowhere.

Below is a photo of the rear driven splines when I removed my rear wheel for the first time to replace the worn out OEM BT-020s. As you can plainly see, there isn't diddly-squat for lubrication back here:

Similarly, here are the driving splines, again with very little factory lubrication on them:

Driveshaft Splines:

We've heard many, many horror stories about the driveshaft splines having next to NO lubrication on them right from the factory, and below is an extreme example. This driveshaft belongs to an Arizona-based FJR owner who only had a mere 5,300 miles and has less than 5 months of service when this photo was taken. Like my driveshaft that you'll see in a photo later in this article, we've seen many driveshaft splines that were virtually devoid of factory lube, but few have displayed the surface corrosion directly on the splines such as this example:

Removing the driveshaft:

Fortunately, this is an extremely easy procedure. After you remove the rear wheel, you simply:
  1. un-do the four acorn nuts using a 14mm socket as seen below, then
  2. pull the pumpkin assembly straight out. The driveshaft will come with it.

Hopefully your splines won't be as bad as the one pictured above! In any event, clean the splines thoroughly and lube the splines with a thin layer of HondaPro Moly 60 (discussed below) and re-assemble by reversing the above steps. [NOTE: keep transmission in gear to aid the re-insertion of driveshaft splines.] Hold off torquing down the acorn nuts until the rear wheel is re-installed (this, to aid in keeping all driveline components properly aligned.)

Below is what the entire driveshaft/pumpkin assembly looks like after you remove it as above. Here, I have slipped the rear axle back through the rear-drive housing so it can rest on the yellowjackstands. Note how my splines were also largely void of factory lube, and a small amount of surface corrosion had formed on the very rear of the shaft. To help preclude this in the future, you can apply a thin coating of Mobil One Synthetic grease on all metal surfaces of the driveshaft.

Spline Lubrication:

You want to use high-quality lubricate on these splines, one that performs well under extreme pressure and loading. The HondaPro Moly 60 Paste is among the very best there is for this application, and I can't recommend it highly enough. It has been a proven performer over the years, and is a favorite of many who are knowledgeable about spline lubrication. 

The photo below shows the driven splines with a nice thin layer of HondaPro Moly 60 slathered on them:

Similarly, here are the driving splines with a fresh layer of HondaPro Moly 60:


Re-install the rear wheel as shown in the "Removing rear wheel" article.

[NOTE: If you have an ABS model, it is critical that you orient the Sensor Ring as shown in the ABS Rear Wheel Removal/Reinstallation article!]

Once the rear wheel is re-installed, DO NOT FORGET to properly torque the four (4) pumpkin housing acorn nuts to 30 ft-lbs!

Here are the other torque values for rear wheel installation:

 Proper Name Torque (lb-lbs) Tool Needed
Rear Axle Nut90 ft-lbs27mm socket, torque wrench
Brake Torque Rod nut22 ft-lbs12mm socket, torque wrench
Rear axle pinch bolt11 ft-lbs12mm socket, torque wrench
ABS Sensor bolt (if applicable)22 ft-lbs5mm hex, torque wrench

(c) 2019  Warchild     All rights reserved.

Web by Warchild