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Upgrading to MAGNUM BLASTER trumpet horns
System Category: Electrical
Activity Type: Accessory
FJR Model Year: 2003  2004  2004 ABS  All model years
Author:Warchild
Date Submitted:Sept, 2003
 

Installing MAGNUM BLASTER electric horns

Most owners will agree the FJR's stock horn is your basic worthless crap horn typically found on Japanese motorcycles. These horns are basically just large piezo buttons, nothing more. The impressive part is that the FJR is at least fitted with dual horns, which works to our advantage as we'll see here in a moment.

If you want to stay alive in heavy traffic, you need serious man-horns, horns that sound like they're packing a set, horns that tell the cell-phone yammering soccer mom to WAKE UP! Horns like these MAGNUM BLASTERS that can be had at Schuck's Auto for $13.99 each! Made in Italy (probably in a FIAMM factory), these MAGNUM BLASTER trumpets are among the loudest of any electric horns you can buy. You talk about some loud, Loud, LOUD shit... I'm talking 138 decibels, baby, oh, HELL YA!!

On the right is a 138db MAGNUM BLASTER Hi-Note electric trumpet horn, on the left, the worthless piezo cheese that's being replaced.

It's important to obtain both hi-note and lo-note horns, because the frequencies do indeed play off each other and make the combined effect seem much louder noise than if both horns were played separately. The FJR's horns are located at the upper two corners or the radiator, so replacing them with these hi and lo-note horns is a straight-forward process. They are a direct, bolt-on replacment.

Below is a generalized schematic diagram for connecting your Magnum Blasters. Basically, you are taking the two EXISTING wires connected to the left horn (a pink and a light-brown wire), and connect them to terminals 85 and 86 of the relay. Terminal 30 takes the INCOMING power that is protected with a 10-amp fuse. Terminal 87 provides the OUTGOING power to the horns:

Here is a shot of the packaging material which shows the horn's part numbers:

It is necessary to trim back the inner cowling piece (to yellow dashed line) a few millimeters with a Dremel in order to clear the trumpet opening (depicted by green dashed line):

Final orientation of trumpets result in just clearing the forks as they sweep by. Yellow dashes depict how close left fork sweeps past left MAGNUM BLASTER trumpet:

Lots going on in this photo below.

Here is the 25-amp, 12vdc relay that powers the horns, bolted through the bottom floor of the inner fairing pocket. For connections for relay terminals 85/86, I used the stock left horn factory connectors themselves. All power and ground wiring is premium 12-gauge coming directly off the power barrier strip. See how hot terminal 87 loops around immediately into a 10-amp minifuse before continuing onto horn's hot terminal. NOTE: this is a slight variation from the above schematic... typically, you'll want to place your fuse between your power source (either battery or your Barrier Strip, etc) and the relay, vice after the relay as seen in the photo. Either way works.

See that yellow arrow on top of that fabric loom? That's special heat-resistant wire loom (available at NAPA) that withstands engine bay temperatures temps up to 250 degreees F. Good to have carry your heavy power line dowm along top of the radiator before connecting to the right horn's hot terminal! All exposed wires were loomed after this photo was taken.

FINAL RESULT:

These are some SERIOUSLY LOUD-ASS HORNS!

These are much louder that the 125db FIAMM Clamshell electric horn I run on my Blackbird. The remind one of your grandfather's old Buick... only louder! This is an extremely worthwhile farkle that just might make a big difference someday in avoiding a mishap.

 


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