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WILBERS Shock Installation
System Category: Chassis
Activity Type: Accessory
FJR Model Year: 2003  2004  2004 ABS  All model years
Author:Warchild
Date Submitted:Feb, 2005
 

Installing the WILBERS Shock Absorber

Model #640 With Remote Hydraulic Preload
The WILBERS Shocks and Fork Spring Group Buy conducted in early 2005 was a huge success, with over 360 combined orders between shock absorbers and fork springs. This FJRTech article describes how to install the most popular model, the #640 with optional Remote Hydraulic Preload, in a standard model FJR1300 (very little difference installing on an ABS model).

Because I wanted to show a lot of detail, this particular FJRTech article is heavy with large photos, so have patience as they are downloaded... and be thankful I am limiting them to only 700 pixels wide!

- Warchild

First the disclaimer: this may not be the only way to install the Wilbers shock, but it's the way I elected to do it, and I encountered no real problems along the way. That doesn't mean that you won't have problems, nor does his mean this is the only way to go about installing the shock.

Right, then. Off we go....

First, gather up the minimum number of tools you'll be needing to install this hardware properly:

You'll want a quality torque wrench, 1/4" & 3/8"-drive ratchets, 4mm allen wrench for bodywork fasteners; a 6mm allen wrench for the right exhaust hangar bracket, the various socket sizes displayed, a couple 6" long 3/8"-drive extensions. Item 'A' is a 3/8"-to-1/2" drive adapter, used to insert into a 1/2' drive extension (item 'b'), for the 1/2"-drive 17mm socket (item 'c'). The latter is a little better suited for the large torque settings (up to 49ft-lbs) that you'll be performing in this job. If you only have a 3/8" drive, that's probably okay, too. Finally, note the scissors jack and block of wood, which you'll need to lift your swingarm at certain points during this job.

To begin, place the bike on the centerstand and remove the seats:
Remove the two (l-r) black side panels at the rear of the fuel tank, then remove the two (l-r) silver side panels. This is all the bodywork disassembly needed to install this model shock. Use your stubby Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 1/4-turn style plastic phillips-head screws located where the yellow arrows point to in this photo above.

Below is how the bike will look with the necessary bodywork removed:
Standing on the left side of the bike, located the three 10mm locknuts that affix the pre-load level assembly (2 of the three are clearly seen in the photo below). Remove these three nuts using your 1/4" ratchet and 10mm socket.
When all three locknuts are removed, slide the assembly straight downward until it clears the rather long bolts as seen below (note: these bolts are fixed and remain in place.... the threads are very sharp; use care to avoid cutting yourself).

 


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