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The Barbarian Jumper Mod
System Category: Fuel-Exhaust
Activity Type: Modification
FJR Model Year: 2003  2004  2004 ABS  All model years
Author:from fjr1300.info, used with permission
Date Submitted:May, 2003
 

The "Barbarian Jumper Mod"

[updated: 15-Oct-2003]

Tom Barber (aka Barbarian) and Dwayne Verhey (aka Torch) from the FJROwners online forum figured out how to enable a North American spec'd FJR1300 to have it's EFI's CO setting adjusted, like the European and OZ/NZ models allow. On 03/05/03 Torch provided the following text and photos: Updated 15-Oct-2003 to include info on how to do a similar mod to the USA-spec 2004 models.

Note: there is a companion Web page documenting how to adjust the CO setting.


2003 Model Year Instructions

The FJR has the capability to adjust the overall fuel injector map for each individual cylinder right from the dashboard. The procedure is well-documented in the European and Oceanic service manuals, and requires the use of CO measuring instruments.

But the Yamaha decided to lock out this capability in the bikes they shipped to North America. It was a conscious decision: they will tell a dealer how to override the lock-out if the dealer can prove the need, but it's a big secret from everyone else.

Not any more. This will explain how you can Europeanize (is that a word?) your FJR so you can have it properly serviced at any shop. Or even at home if you have the proper equipment. All you have to do is move one little wire: the Barbarian Jumper (named after the nickname of the fellow who discovered it.)

First, remove the seat and two left sidecovers. As with the dash panels, Yamaha used a variety of fasteners on this job, including Allen head fasteners, push-pin fasteners, and 1/4 turn Philips head fasteners. See your owner's manual for a more complete description of removing each. Don't forget the two underneath the sidecover.

Next, remove the airbox cover. At least all 4 of these are the same 1/4 turn fastener. Unfortunately, the one indicated by the screwdriver is recessed and a PITA.

With the covers out of the way, the ECU is now accessible. Squeeze the black latch on the top of the connector as you pull it out of the ECU.

On the underside of the connector are 3 white bars. Using a fingernail or small screwdriver, push the left one (as pictured) in about 1/32". This unlocks the wires in the connector.

Pin #27 is the 5th from the left on the bottom row. It houses a yellow wire with a red stripe -- 1/2 of the Barbarian Jumper. Carefully remove this wire from the connector. Make sure you have the wire for pin 27 -- the other half of the jumper is only 2 pins away at 29, and we want to leave that half there.

Do not pull on wires -- if they are pulled even slightly out you will not be able to re-lock the connector. Also, the metal terminal ends are very fragile and difficult to replace if you separate the wire from the terminal. Push the wire out gently as shown in the next picture."

Using a small piece of stiff wire (I used some .030 MIG wire, but a paperclip or safety pin would probably work) gently push up from the ECU side of the connector to lift the wire to pin 27 and the white plug in pin 25. Do not force anything! The metal terminal ends on the wires are fragile and easily damaged. Lift the pin out with tweezers or needlenose pliers.

The plug is small. Very small. And bouncy. It can travel a surprising distance when deflected off the airbox. If you drop it you are in for more fun than a snipe hunt. Do not ask me how I know this. Use tweezers.

Put the plug in pin 27. Put the wire you removed in pin 25. Make sure they are fully seated and then re-lock the connector by pressing the left hand (as pictured) white bar on the top of the connector down until flush (about 1/32") It does not take a lot of force, so if it doesn't want to go you probably have a wire pulled slightly out. Make sure all the wires in the left 1/3 of the connector are fully seated and try again.

When you are all done, insert the connector into the ECU until the latch clicks. If you did it right, it should look like this now. Your FJR1300 is now ready for you to tackle the CO Adjustment procedure, documented here also. Note: No ECUs were harmed in the making of this web page.

Before attempting this mod there was a great deal of discussion and analysis (on the FJROwners online forum) of the comparative wiring diagrams and possible operating parameters of the unit. Then the signal levels of the various ECU pins were sampled with a high impedance probe and oscilloscope to clarify any ambiguities.

I may be curious, but I ain't stupid.

Nonetheless: all the standard disclaimers apply: Do this at your own risk. I am not responsible if you let the smoke out of your ECU. YMMV. Etc.

-- Torch.

2004 Model Year Instructions

Ionbeam (aka Alan Smith) sent in the above photo and writes:

Refer to the above photo if you have a 2004 model year FJR1300. But first I suggest you go back to the top and read the procedure for the 2003 models if you haven't already -- just so you understand the basic idea of this modification.

The '04 models don't come with wires in pins 29 and 27, so the trick is to simply jumper #25 to #29 as shown above. A plain 16-18 gauge wire can be used, or you may use a 22k ohm resistor, as shown in the photo. Either way works. If you can get to the "CO adjust mode" after doing this mod, then you did it correctly.

After successfully completing this mod, you will want to go to the CO adjustment Webpage to learn how to change your FJR's settings.

Copyright © 2003, by H. Marc Lewis, Tom Barber, and Dwayne Verhey.
All rights reserved.

 


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